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Just some of the modifications & Upgrades since 2015

First of all the interior was missing some trim items after the restoration. The seat foam had disintigrated and the cloth covers I had made were tired.
The plastic brush aluminium look facia panels also were scratched.
I Had new panels made up for doors and kick panels. The seats had new foam and webbing and new covers in Black and Grey vinyle. The old facia I replaced with some aluminium sheets.
Jensen Healey Interior Jensen Healey Interior Jensen Healey Interior
Jensen Healey Interior
The fuel tank was in a bad state, previously I had tried to clean and seal with POR15. This wasn't successful so I had the rusty bottom of the tank welded, this stopped the leaks but the inside was still bad and rust and crap regularly blocked the fuel filter causing me to have to stop the car on journeys and wait for the crud to clear. So eventually I bought a stainless steel tank.
Jensen Healey stainless steel fuel tank Jensen Healey stainless steel fuel tank
The next job was to update the lighting. Previously I had changed the headlights over from sealed beam to H4 Halogen. At the time I didn't put relays in and although brighter I decided to put relays in to take the load off the switch and loom. This also makes the headlights even brighter and the instrument lighting too.
I spliced into the loom on the drivers side inner wing near the front and ran my heavy duty power cable straight from the battery.
Jensen Healey Rover V8 engine
The interior has been Dynomatted to add sound deadening and provide some heat transfer protection from he large twin exhausts running under the floor boards.

Fitting after market gas lift struts

A solution to a bent bonnet when someone who doesn't know you need to release the bonnet stay before trying to close the bonnet. Also with mine the unsupported side used to dip lower.
I didn't want to spend a lot of money and was happy with the standard height of the original stay so I sourced these from Ebay for £23.00. I then just had to source some self tapping bolts to mount the top of the gas lift to the bonnet. The reinforcing plates for the bottom of the strut I made up from what I had lying around.
These are the specs
Length (Ball to ball centres): 550mm Force (Nm): 300
Stroke: 240mm Rod Ø: 8mm Cyl Ø: 19mm

First you have to offer up the new gas lift strut to your open bonnet and work out where they need to be sited. Try to get the top mounted closer to the back of the bonnet as you can. Once your happy measure and then measure again to make sure both sides are mark correctly and even because now you have to drill holes.
I made strengthening plates up for where the bottom of the strut mounting ball goes through the inner wing, one for each side of the wing.
The top strut bracket is mounted on the bonnet support frame I didn't reinforce any thing I just made sure the point of the bracket that holds the ball was right on the edge of the support frame where it is almost ninety degrees to the force you will be applying, These are the supplied brackets and need to bolted to the frame with the self tapping bolts I bought.
You need some sort of stop on your drill so you don't drill all the way through the bonnet.
I've had these struts fitted for a couple of months and the bonnet has been up and down lots of times with out needing any more strenghtening.